BACK TO COOL COLD MOUNTAIN
Fall Winter 2011-12
March 1, 2011
By Gianmarco Gentile
Milan, Italy – Dsquared2’s collection is definitely homage to wives, sisters and daughters of those pioneers who, back in the 1860s, colonized a great part of the American territory – a dusty, icy landscape.
Wearing different layers of clothes is a must, to shield from icy wind and snow, but also to play with asymmetrical cuts and different materials. Colors are the typical ones you’d imagine for winter: black, grey, brown and some flashes of optical white and bright pink for accessories. However, as we’ve come to know Dsquared2, sexiness and boldness, especially when it comes to women’s wear, are always in the air – and this show was no exception. Floor-long skirts may be unrevealing in their length, but can be as provocative as a miniskirt when they are made of skintight grey wool cloth, as white shirts when worn with black washed leather pants and corset-like belts polished by ribbons and crystal decorations. Fedoras – a must for next season -, the omnipresent vest declined in wool, studded leather or even fox fur, as well as working gloves or soft, colored, long evening gloves completed the range of accessories the Fashion Twins created for the bold woman going out in next winter’s cold.
Used, stone-washed, worn-off denim hit the catwalk worn with unexpected ice skate-like ankle boots (with a sharp metal blade connecting the sole to the heel!), black fur boleros, muffs and white aprons that completed the working pioneer outfit, as well as neckerchiefs and colored crystal necklaces.
A collection inspired by Canada, mountain cabins (there actually was a real-size wooden one on stage, accessorized with fake snow and a couple of pines) and working gear then, recalled by raw fabrics, maxi fringed capes in coarse wool, corduroy dark brown pants and an extensive use of leather and fur hugging both skinny and oversized silhouettes.
Once again Dean and Dan literally made us shiver in pleasure.