Strong.  Provocative.  Self-confident.  

Fall Winter 2011-12

 

March 1, 2011

By Gianmarco Gentile

Milan, Italy – A woman who knows who she is and what she wants is the woman I once again saw at the JR fashion show today in Milan. As usual, all Richmond’s typical signature outfits were featured: leather – the man is a master and a pioneer in the art of using leather, and his name is inevitably linked to black, biker-like leather jackets – then  grey, striped, man look-a-like tuxedos, sequined and Swarovski encrusted mini dresses, and yet, surprisingly, no trace of skulls.

Richmond’s woman would not indulge so much in being seductive and glamorous by using bright, shocking colors, but she’d rather achieve the same eye-popping effect on her male counterpart by showing him how she manages to steal, cut, modify, reinvent and perfectly adapt to her stunning figure his most classic and iconic garments. In this way plain white cotton shirts became weapons of seduction when they are drenched by a Swarovski crystal shower, and grey striped, classic cashmere jackets, or black double-breasted ones, only keep the length of what was his original suit after being taken from his wardrobe – but volumes then become so tight fitting they can be worn with nothing under.

His ordinary, black cashmere coat? Take it, add ultra-soft black leather linings and decors, create an intricately crafted web pattern on the back and you’ll have Richmond’s final result. But it’s when the night falls that this woman shows her most seductive and original side. Pale skin and deep purple tones are declined in sequined/feathered/embedded silky jersey mini dresses that would make any head turn. Long dresses fall under the spotlight, and you’d be able to choose among a long, silk, emerald green, strapless organza piece with horizontal cuts, or a long, fuchsia, also strapless one with a bold detail on the corset: a bunch of long, smooth marabou feathers.

What I liked the most?  The two final gowns:  the first, an awesome piece made of bright, ultra-smooth deep blue silk with old, foulard-like abstract prints, a cylindrical, not-too-revealing shape with a short train and a long slit on the side. The last, a long dress made of a black napa leather back zipped corset with a big, balloon shaped black chiffon flounced skirt.