Retro-Future with Leather Galore Fall Winter 2012-13
February 4, 2012
Madrid, Spain – The Roberto Torretta collection for autumn-winter 2012 is about a revival of the future. That is, a mixture between what the designer wants to propose for his upcoming winter collection, mixed with classic sartorial pieces. Impeccable cuts, rigorous silhouettes and exquisite fabrics and materials are the keywords of the collection. It is an intoxicating mix of the feminine purity of mid-century design mixed with an ultra chic sporty silhouette, playing with volumes, colors and textures that aim at a new elegance. A modernist approach to dressing that offers a look that is both chic and sleek. As for that, leather is everywhere and it is shown in countless variations: calfskin for rough cut shopping bags, shaved mink for fur details, washed napa for bon-ton dresses with crystal décors, soft napa to tailor chocolate colored biker pants, jackets worn onto cashmere jersey dresses and cobalt blue lambskin gloves combined with periwinkle blue suits.
The collection is clearly inspired from the past, with the idea of bourgeois dressing: ladylike silhouettes infused with intrigue and a hint of subversion, leaving you wondering what really lies beneath. Shapes are borrowed from retro-couture, as in modernist cocoon and oval shapes; raglan sleeves and skirts slightly longer at the knee are paramount to the look. It is a modern approach to femininity, where the dress is the focus of the silhouette. It is then updated by mixing colors, fabrics, textures and graphic shapes as inserts. Black jersey, classical mini dresses become edgier and more interesting when their sleeves are made out of ultra-soft, cocoa suede, with the finishing touch of a jade green fox fur bolero and caramel colored long gloves in smooth napa leather.
We saw jacquards in tone on tone leopards or muted chevrons, then bouclés and boiled wools used to tailor impeccable overcoats in ivory and ecru, with napa leather inserts in sand color. The looks also take their influence from a pictorial wave of painters of the 50’s, namely the artist Pierre Soulages; a modernist lyric abstraction giving a graphic edge to the outfits. The collection is thus given a dose of modern futurism, but it always keeps its trademark classic approach and refinement. This was the case of a scarlet red cashmere knee-long dress, which was masterly accessorized with a bulky, shaved fur collar in the same shade of red, giving an otherwise almost ordinary dress a touch of unexpected sophistication. This juxtaposition of cool, clean shapes, where coats are slick and structured or drop shouldered, and dresses with narrow waists have balanced structures was the leitmotive of the whole show. The color palette of inky blacks is mixed with graphic cobalt and grey blues, deep browns, tender gray tones and beiges getting a lift from pale pink.
Throw a fur over your favorite dress by Roberto Torretta. Add a pair of black high-heeled pumps and you’ll be ready to go.