Crystal Flowers and Art Déco glamour
Fall Winter 2012-13
February 4, 2012
Madrid, Spain – The Autumn/Winter 2012 Collection from Elisa Palomino pays homage to a peculiar race of extravagant women. The aim is undoubtedly that of establishing eccentric glamour as the right of every woman: the muses chosen to guide us on this path include notoriously elegant women such as Edith Sitwell, Elsie de Wolfe, Sarah Bernhardt, Ida Rubnstein, Liane de Pougy, Nancy Cunard and Peggy Guggenheim. All of them were cutting-edge icons: painters, poets, novelists, dancers and lesbian lovers. They dressed for their own satisfaction, with enthusiasm and ingenuity, in order to provoke or to horrify, replete with crimson red lips and dresses of Oriental inspiration. This is certainly the reason why conspicuous imagery of the 20’s was shown, declined in stuffed birds, parasols, pearls, brocades, luxurious embroidery, cardigans, feathers, brooches, veils and bows, brilliant floral headwear and jewelry.
Vibrant colors, including rich red and pink shades, fuchsia, cherry, could be seen on the blossoming flowers embroidered on sensuous fabrics – namely stretch velvet and black satin – used to create nostalgic ankle dresses that made up for most of the collection. Winter and oriental flower motifs appeared on a series of prints shaping the unmistakably “Roaring Twenties” identity of the collection; flowers appeared in velvet tunics, cocoon coats of large size and draped tops: gardenias, carnations, gerberas and water lilies could be spotted both printed and embroidered on rich, sumptuous silk dresses or on soft suede capes. Different varieties of purple silk, adorned with roses and crimson carnations, combined so to create spaghetti-strap dresses of startling beauty. Oriental themes were also widely featured: geisha-ish make up, kimonos, Chinese quipongs and tunics of Neo- Classical style were mixed with darker, edgier mini dresses in black strapless satin adorned with ostrich feather and macro flowery details covered with black sequins, in a brief innuendo to a post-punk era.
In short, we found a combination of Pre-Raphaelite, Oriental and Surrealist styles that make up a very special prêt-à-porter collection, both consistent and provocative in its inspiration and realization.