Stylist Inheritance Led with A Contemporary Attitude
Fall Winter 2011-12
March 1, 2011
By Gianmarco Gentile
Milan, Italy – For this wonderful collection, Donatella Versace decided to reuse one of his brother trademark elements: the Barocco décor. The iconic print, which instantly became a trademark logo for the Maison, was personally drawn by late Gianni Versace in the early Nineties and used extensively for clothing and the home collection as well. For the upcoming winter season, a detail of this drawing (which basically is an abstract motif of a twirling ivy with blossoming tulip flowers), that is, the flower itself and some leaves, were enlarged and printed onto dresses and coats.
The main colors for coats and dresses were black, white and violet, and the macro detail printed on garments was in yellow (the flower) and black or white (according to the color of the coat). The show featured long, Napoleon-style wool cloth overcoats with macro golden buttons with an embossed Medusa on, worn with matching big buckled belts.
Dresses reminiscing of Verhoeven ‘s “Basic Instinct” were proposed in black or white woolen gabardine, but enriched with the aforementioned Barocco motif, asymmetrical cuts and necklines and primped by golden metallic buttons that would have whetted Catherine Tramell’s appetite. Even more would have the evening dresses shown from the second part of the show. Black, fitted napa leather dresses with a “V” detail on the corset and no placket; white organza gowns with asymmetrical slits on the corset and a soft airy skirt; long feathered dresses in black or short, bold, feathered yellow mini dresses with balloon-shaped shoulders and a matching vinyl belt underlining the waistline; a black dress with an emerald green patent leather all over detail having the shape of a stylized snake. The whole show was constructed to lead the audience to a climax of elegance and contrast that reached its top when a stunning white, single shouldered gabardine dress with a deep back placket and big golden buttons was shown, accessorized with a mini golden sequined handbag having the shape of a tridimensional Medusa, followed immediately after by a black strapless look alike with a front placket.
The last stunning outfits shown consisted of an ankle-long, tight fitting spaghetti-strap beaded pearl gown with a mermaid-like shape, and two marvelous long evening dresses – on in white, the other in deep blue – with the bodice made of crisscross bands of silk leaving the back naked and a light, soft skirt entirely covered with matching feathers.
Once again Ms. Versace has shown us that she is perfectly worthy of her brother’s stylistic inheritance. She is leading Versace with a contemporary attitude, an endless attention towards details and capacity to re-invent her style.