Demure, sophisticated, and elegant, Christophe Josse’s Winter 13 couture collection displays a confident air that is at once seductively inviting and cleverly mysterious. Inspired by Steppes women and the cultures of the Ural Mountains in Russia, Josse exchanged his classic approach to cuts this season for a more liberated form. A favorite for the week, his subtlety in the application of rich details exudes a sense of intellect and wisdom without sacrificing the youth of his muse.
Leading with a minimalist tunic dress in alabaster wool crepe, his vision evolves through a variety of handcrafted pieces. A sheer braided-lace dress is complemented by the following afghan scarf shawl and similarly patterned sequin skirt. Volumes mount as the collection continues into a series of long billowing ensembles that loosely grasp the shoulders and waist. A light palette of creamy ivories, gives way to that of aged champagne, finishing in a dusty peach. Though materials range from natural leathers to pressed neoprene, the 16 silhouettes maintain a strong congruity thanks to the smart placement of embroidered and pressed patterns.
Choice looks include an enveloping white cape with clear beadwork and Mongolian lamb’s wool segmenting the top half over a pair of ¾ length neoprene pants. An asymmetrical peach satin blouse over a relaxed leather skirt also turned heads with its accompanying oversized wood necklace. The only piece that warrants note of criticism is a 3 tiered taffeta dress appearing in ivory and champagne. Though the form makes sense for the progression of the inspiration, its multi-colored tiers are overworked in contrast to the rest of the collection. However, this detail is minor in the grand scheme of things for one of the most well rounded presentations of the season.