Future Retro Now
By Ford Leland,
Paris, France – Swathed in hues of brown, copper, gold, and black, the women of Julien Fournie’s Winter 2013 collection arrived in Paris this summer like time-travelling visitors from some distant retro-future. This season has a steam punk flavour progressing well from the last collection’s black and white striped theme carrying over many of the same shapes, patterns, and embroideries. Cinched waists, high collars, busty corsets, and voluminous shoulder details define the collection, while rounded corners and smoothed edges provide the futuristic feel that has come to represent the Fournié brand.
Of particular note are the matching skirt and gown in a sequinned fabric that looks like the charred fur of some golden animal: well done. The finale piece was also a crowd pleaser, emerging like a budding techno-geisha with a creamy ruffled collar. However, this beautifully imagined universe occasionally straddles the line between fashion and costume. Most pieces are successful, but a few, such as the high collared dress near the end of the show made fully in a golden geometric pattern, fall just barely short of “editorial” and just past “wearable”. As one of the Haute Couture industry’s youngest brand’s it will be exciting to see this idea taken even further next season!