Innovation with Commercial Appeal


By Marcellous L. JONES

Milan, Italy – Now that Paul Surridge has had several seasons to move Z. Zegna forward according to his own vision, his strategy and goals are coming together. He emphasis is placed more on practical wear and fabrics innovation than the more “statement-makers” championed by his predecessor Alessandro Satori.  In his work we find more commercially safe pieces and silhouettes that include suits with large round-edge pockets, single-breasted suits with slits fonts in the back of the blazers, thin belts, and large scarves. The shoulders are more structured as is the trend of the season from London.

Surridge works with chocolate, tobacco, orange, white gray and various diverse hues of the three.  Boiled wool is used in many pieces like vests and jackets. However it is important to note the effective use of leather with wool felts.  They are employed in the short-cropped jackets that have been bonded together.