Time Required to Digest & Process Stefano Pilati’s First Work
By Marcellous L. JONES
Milan, Italy – All of Milan is abuzz with excitement as the house presented its first collection under the artistic direction of Stefano Pilati. Since his appointment to the post, the fashion world has been waiting to see his first foray into the Zegna universe.
This first outing sees the designer working with volume in his outerwear, making it more inventive and less predictable with the use of polka dots. The tailoring is more sartorial than what we have become accustomed to seeing at Zegna these past years. Many of the sleeves have been rolled up in order to reveal the details of the colorful lining.
The waistlines on some of the trousers appear to be raised high. Some of the blazers have long vertically cut pockets similar to what we would find in less formal windbreakers. And element of flash comes in the form of a short cut bombers in tan and with embellishing copper studs.
One must admit that though collection rich in quality, it is weak in personality. And even against an irreproachable palette of leather, linen, wool and silk, one still pause to really consider its overall value and place within the Ermenegildo Zegna aesthetic.