April 3, 2015
By Marcellous L. Jones
Photos by Vanja Isosevic
St. Petersburg, Russia – Before the show began, a moment of silence was observed in remembrance of Larisa Linova, the founder of the Russian fashion house Harlen. Her unexpected passing comes only two weeks prior to the presentation of today’s collection. Therefore, it is with a deep and somber tone that her co-designer colleagues presented her last work under the banner of Fall Winter 2015/16.
The silhouettes are composed of intricately done coats worn over long skirts, dresses, and the occasional set of pants. Light materials such as printed silks compose many of the pieces worn close to the body. However one cannot doubt the importance and supremacy of the outerwear in this collection.
We find angular edges and soft peaks throughout the coats. They are designed as convertibles thanks to a complex play with zippers and with buttons. The sleeves find sudden volume and unexpected liberation thanks to the zippers. And other coats can become a simple perfecto jacket with embellishments.
The color palette is reserved but made rich thanks to the use of grape, Bordeaux, navy, gray, tan, black and an additional blue undertones added to other greys. The end result is a collection supremely worthy of the late designer’s statute and reputation.