July 5, 2016
By Marius Brianski
Paris, France – Walter Van Beirendonck invites us to his fairy tale in his work for Spring/Summer 2016.
Full of abstract designs, forms and prints the collection reminds me of visual kei artist from Japan. One the inspirations is David Bowie and his style in the 70’s. One can see futuristic glam rock, with simple silhouettes. They appear smashed with childlike, colorful forms and combine the pessimistic darkness with youthful energy.
Very visible are the flared pants in solid colors or in multi-colored jacquard in sweet looking circles. The very interesting coats and sweatshirts are innocent, yet psychedelic in details. Also worth noticing are the latex t-shirts and leather jackets with surprising details. Each garment is a little oversized, and with details leaving the human shape visible. Especially noticeable are the hats in the end and the deformed shoes.
The color palette ranges from baby pinks, burgundy, navy, black, tans and green with touches of other vivid colors to get the cartoony effect. The finishing touches are the shoes, hats and scarfs. The final effect is rather gloomy and pessimistic. The collection as a whole is maybe not to wearable, but interesting as a concept contrasting the childhood with dark adolescence.