July 14, 2015
By Marcellous L. Jones
Photos by P. Stable
Paris, France – Jean Paul Gaultier amazes the couture world this season by taking us from Paris to the seaside city of Brest. He begins the presentation by addressing his clientele’s need for daywear. From the beginning of the show, we see the dominant leitmotif of the collection in the form of beautiful, flat-bubble skirts or even disks. The look, which is animated by model Anna Cleveland, is of a black velvet Kazak top and embroidered skirt in leather crepe. These embroideries are found on numerous pieces throughout the collection. They serve as a harbinger of the opulence to follow.
The crepe form or “galette” disk is again the shape that dominates the silhouettes. However, we find pencil skirts, and beautiful pantsuits and tuxedo inspirations in the collection. Gaultier has imbued them and all the looks with the spirit of maritime city of Brest, France. We all know that his sailor shirt is the indispensably emblematic code found in all of the grand couturier’s work. In this collection he goes further and uses the striped print in the stockings and tights. Appearing in a variety of double colors, they add a whimsical air to the collection.
Many are the looks that we all love in this collection. However, this writer has an immediate partiality to Look N°3 titled “VONNICK A LA FOURRURE“. This wonderful silhouette sees the sailor stripes in creme and blue transposed onto a silk jumpsuit. It is worn with a bi-color mink coat in blue and brown.
Haute couture is all about attention to detail, finishing and exquisite embellishments. Gaultier therefore has spent quite a bit of time to invent a new shape for his tailored jackets. For example in one black suit, we see the shoulders supported with a pyramid form. This latter has been crafted with the use of Swarovski crystal elements.
After a parade of knits, pleats, embroideries, silks, crystals, cashmeres, fur, crepes, velvets, lace, gloves, fringes and bags, we finally are treated to the pièce de résistance: the wedding gown worn by Anna Cleveland. The large skirted creation is done in lace, fur and embroideries. It brought the show to a perfect ending.