This Season Sonia Rykiel Lacks the Musicality
For Which the House is Known
October 26, 2015
By Marius Brianski
Photos Courtesy of Sonia Rykiel
Paris, France – Julie de Libran presents her third collection as creative director of Sonia Rykiel, celebrating the liberated intellectual.
A woman who is free, cultivated and loves the decadent nightlife was always the ideal characteristics that have always defined the Sonia Rykiel girls. To accentuate the designer’s love for art and literature, the catwalk was turned into a library. The silhouettes presented are elongated, very 70’s inspired and a little androgynous. The models presented mini knitwear dresses, pleated tunics, short ruffled dresses, elegant coats, tailored casual jackets, oversized shirts, sweatshirts, shimmering sequined tops and massive fox stoles.
The fabrics of diffrent volumes are mixed featuring leather, silk, cotton, tweed and lace. Trends of the moment are visible with camo designs, sheer tops and fringing. The swallow is a signature print for Spring/Summer 2016 appearing on dresses, as details on belts and sequined patches.
The color palette for 2016 is black, white, navy blue, green, yellow, purple, orange, gold and red. The accessories are wedges, high-heeled sandals, scarfs, bags of many sizes, scarfs and belts.
Nonchalant, frivolous and true to the identity of the brand the new collection is current and a sure go-to for the cool girl looking for eye-catching day wear. The garments look glamorous and seductive in a old school way, which is the essence of the house’s DNA.
However, before ending one must take a minute of pause to speak on the change of atmosphere. To not do so would be remiss of this writer. In each and every catwalk show for the house of Sonia Rykiel, the models traditionally look so naturally spirited, lively and just happy to be there. In this collection it would seem that the models have taken no such pleasure. This might be due to the clear lack of musicality on which a significant portion of the house’s foundation was built. This may prove to be a bad omen because even the normally animated Anna Cleveland was unusually subdued in this particular catwalk show.