November 20, 2015

By Marcellous L. Jones

Photos by Peter Simon

Baku, Azerbaijan – In the new Spring/Summer 2016 collection by the Azeri fashion house Leya Couture, we find a litany of beautiful shapes, proportions, and styles.  However, without a singular leitmotif or as one says in French fil conducteur, this writer is compelled to speak about the specifics of individual looks.

The collection has a huge variety of fabrics, patterns, styles, prints and shapes. We find a large range of silks, tulles, laces, etc. One favored dress is a printed maxi dress in silk. It is sleeveless and has colorful prints. Sleeveless, it has been embellished with ruffles. Another favorite look is a two-piece silk dress with large, bell-cut ½ length sleeves. The skirt has an asymmetrical cut. This is one of the strongest looks among the many cuts. Why? Because it is VERY fashionable while remaining very approachable from a key sales point of view.

Later as the “collection” progresses we find a simply cut 1950’s inspired two-piece dress in pure white. It composed of a shirt with short sleeves in white silk chiffon. The skirt half the look has more volume. And it is finished with lovely floral embroideries.

Though this writer is not a fan of traditional national wear, I do admit to appreciating the beautiful ball gown in aubergine. It is the most conservative gown, yet is one that does the most to flatter the female form.  It naturally depends on a beautiful figure for its overall success. It has long sleeves and a successfully corseted back. From the waist it blooms into a ballroom tulip shape and is finished with beads, and pearls.

To resume the house’s work, t is extremely difficult to qualify Leya Couture’s collection as an actual collection. This is due to the fact that the couturier has not succeeded in presenting a COHERENT work united by its selection of fabrics, cuts and a principal idea that could stand to unite the entire body of the work as a whole. Yet even though it seems to be more of a retrospective work of what the tastes of the house’s clients, there still remains the fact that there are many beautiful pieces here to consider.

LEYA COUTURE - Spring/Summer 2016

LEYA COUTURE – Spring/Summer 2016


LEYA COUTURE – Spring/Summer 2016


LEYA COUTURE – Spring/Summer 2016


LEYA COUTURE – Spring/Summer 2016


LEYA COUTURE – Spring/Summer 2016


LEYA COUTURE – Spring/Summer 2016