December 7, 2015
By Marcellous L. Jones
Photos by Svetlana Braun
Novi Sad, Serbia – In choosing the catwalks of the Serbia Fashion Week to make his European debut, the American designer Ean Williams starts us on a glamour tour that takes us first back to the 1950’s. He opens the presentation of his new Spring/Summer 2016 collection with a lovely ensemble of a black jumper set with white polka dots. He then adds to it a white skirt train. The whole look is very reminiscent of a beautiful Lana Turner in 1959’s Hollywood remake of the Imitations of Life.
Just after he takes us directly into his next section, which is all about white laces. We see hints of flesh revealed throughout this movement. The gowns range from maxi dresses to body-hugging fits. When Williams hits his sequins, he prefers still to reveal the skin. However in some pieces, we see more architectural cutouts in the fabrics. This naturally gives us a hint of the skin.
One should make note of the interesting mix of fabrics with which Williams is working. Sequins, lace, tulle, sheers and chiffon are finished off with appliqués and then applied to the garments.
In the later part of the collection black finally makes its long awaited entry. Ean Williams wastes no time in putting it to good use in his full ballroom volumes. Here the designer is consistent with his preference for high waistlines and bustier tops. But this writer admits to having a particular weakness for his sleeveless gown in black. It is composed entirely of flowing appliqués done in black tulle.
It is without a scintilla of a doubt that the final wedding dress arguably provides the most compelling moment in the collection. It is created in white tulle and is embellished with a constellation of crystals. It is finished with an elaborate and theatrical headdress!