January 16, 2016
By Marcellous L. Jones
Photos Courtesy of Roberto Cavalli
Milan, Italy – Peter Dundas has just signed his first menswear collection as artistic director for irrepressible fashion house of Roberto Cavalli. And now it is time to evaluate if his imagination is a fit for the flamboyancy of the house known for breaking all the rules of color coding.
In this Fall Winter 2016/17 collection Dundas envisions a full wardrobe for the style heroes of youth who influenced his own tastes. That is to say a love for the late 1960s and early 1970s. These are names like Serge Ginsburg, Mick Jagger, Keith Richards, Jimmy Page, George Harrison, Gram Parsons. He examined what he likes most about them and put in all together. The result is a colorful and sassy opus for our time. The silhouettes are a mix of Italian tailoring, masculinity, musicality and style. There are strong hints of femininity too, juxtaposed with a thriving sexual energy that transform the Cavalli man into a chic beast of hipness.
Color is vital to appreciating the qualities of the collection. In addition to the prerequisite animal prints, Dundas has chosen bitter chocolate and rust, dusty rose, sepia and tobacco. He uses precious and semi-precious tones of amethyst, emerald and ruby to enhance the subtle femininity of the work. This creates a spicy color palette. Further playing on the feminine side of the work is a plethora of beautiful embroideries.
Dundas takes all the aforementioned elements and shapes them into realistic looks for today’s man. The trousers are comfortably cut in fabrics of silk, cashmere, wool, tweed, natural fur, denim and faux fur. And for the most part, they are in a solid tone. Color and prints are always present in top portion of the silhouettes. Here is where the house proposes woven-print scarves, necklaces, etc. And they also propose lots of printed Converse-style shoes and long coats that establish a longiligne look.
When all is said and done, it is clear that Peter Dundas has settled quite easily into the throne of artistic director at Roberto Cavalli. This new collection must be considered as a successful achievement on both an aesthetic level and a commercial one too.