January 18, 2016
Photos Courtesy of Jil Sander
Milan, Italy – Military influences like from the cult movie “Top Gun” are clearly visible on the catwalk and in the new Fall Winter 2016/17 collection shown by fashion house Jill Sander.
One can see elongated lines in long coats, vests and shirts. The shapes are either relaxed with dropped shoulders or tailored closely to the body. Each option has perfect construction and fit. The neckline is usually really high with collars covering the neck. The coats are defined at the waist by belts with also asymmetric buckled belts hanging from the shoulder. This serves to reinforce the notion of military style. And one can find a play with mixing textures and fabrics emphasising the arms, shoulders and torso by panels and patches.
The accessories feature white sneakers, boots, bags of different size, eyeglasses and knitted scarfs. The colors for autumn are subdued with army green, greys, browns and black.
The silhouettes are clean and vertical or bell-shaped with some asymmetry. There’s a careful eye for each detail from the perfectly shaped pockets to each buttons. The pants are slim fitted or baggy. The collection also features wool sweaters, suits, bomber jackets, jumpsuits, double-breasted coats and some raw leather wear.
In the end Jil Sander proposes a straightforward collection that takes military inspirations and puts them into the street. The looks are refined, powerful and approachable.