January 22, 2016
By Marcellous L. Jones
Photos Courtesy of Valerio Mezzanotti
Paris, France – In Paris American designer Rick Owens presented one of the anticipated collections of the men’s season. His new work for Fall Winter 2016/17 has been dipped into a strong refusal to seek, to adhere or even acknowledge conformity. This is an area in which the designer excels particularly well above most others.
The new collection sees Rick Owens working with oversizing. The most recurrent element are the giant pockets that we find brandished all over the pants and jumpsuits. The legs of these two latter are extremely large. They form a stark contrast to the short-cropped jackets that have been cut in a slim manner and designed to hug the mid section. They are in fact our introduction to Rick Owens ‘s tailoring. Here he puts it on display in the short cropped formal jackets in velvet or leathers, in the blazers and even in the redingote.
No secret that the designer’s work is always on an edge. However, we do see him working with soft, delicate peaks too. He gathers and drapes both lambskin leather and bulky, furry materials until they form gentle peaks in his wears. They take us away from the brute force that generally surrounds this particular Fall Winter 20161/7 opus.
Rick Owens has created this new outing on a backdrop that is dominated by black. Of course we find hints of heather, white and natural tones. He places them on cotton, leather, knits, cashmere, etc. With them he makes his elephant’s leg sized creations credible and realistic. However this writer’s weakness is found in the both the sleeveless and long sleeved jumpsuits as they conjugate Owen’s large pockets, large legs and general embodiments of the collection. Together they constitute the indisputable must-have pieces.