June 22, 2016
By Marcellous L. Jones
Courtesy of Ports 1961
Milan, Italy – In today’s insanely charge atmosphere of violence and intolerance on ostensively every level spanning from gender inequality to the recent horrific anti-LGBT community attacks in Orlando, Florida, it is nice to see a simple message of universal acceptance. This is the case as presented at the Ports 1961 fashion show in Milan for the Spring/Summer 2017 season.
This season artistic director Milan Vukmirovic continued his foray into giving the men’s line a more widespread appeal. In his youthful approach, he gave us a universal message: #LOVE. This is without a scintilla of a doubt his positive protest against the violence and atmosphere of hate that seems to be gripping more and more world capitols and important cities.
The silhouettes are dominated by shorts that have been paired with tank tops, gauzy cotton shirts, pull overs and jackets. They have borrowed military inspirations such as chord embroideries, which form the most important visual leitmotif. We them again and again on the shirts, the sleeves, the necklines, the trousers, etc. Other military style elements include uniform jackets, a hint of camouflage, trouser’s inspired from officer’s pants, etc. To them Vukmirovic adds athletic wear pieces such as button down gym pants, below-the-knees boxer’s shorts in camouflage, etc.
Black is the overwhelming top color in the palette along with white and some natural tones such as blonde. They have been added to the diverse range of materials that finally include cotton, linen, knits, woven materials and technical fibers. The looks have been again thoroughly embellished with appliqués and straps for a strong look.
At the end of the show Milan Vukmirovic personally took his message of greater tolerance to the audience. Once on the catwalk’s center, he turned and revealed to the audience his own #LOVE (see images below).