June 26, 2016

By Marcellous L. Jones

(More Photos to Follow)

Paris, France – This season sees a noticeable carefree creative spirit taking hold of many menswear houses. As the financial markets strengthens, so has the confidence levels of houses in making their collection more identifiable. This is a happy thing for fashion consumers who are looking to be regarded more as individuals rather than as part of a collective whole. And at Lanvin, we feel this most keenly.

Men’s artistic director Lucas Ossendrijvers has decided to reinterpret silhouettes from the late 1960s and elements of the 1980s for the composition of the new men’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection. The silhouettes include moderately baggy trousers worn with chic tops, long thin scarves and neckerchiefs. They tend to taper as they move closer below the calves but stop above the ankles. The waist is accented with very thin belts, which too have their own punctuations including metal loops, hanging strings and design for buckles.

The shirts have the large, soft edged collars of the 1960s. It is nothing less than the establishment of a carefree spirit ! The outerwear adds to this too. We find short cropped jackets finishing just at the waist. They, like the long coats, enjoy a bit of oversizing. This last element finds its strength with the shoulders, which are a bit large. — And here again we find the tip of the hat to the 1980s. And with that we see that Lucas Ossendrijvers has decided to sneak in a favorite of the early 1980s: THE MUSCLE SHIRT !

That’s right this indispensable classic of the early 80s  is back. In the tradition of that period from which it was born, Ossendrijvers has created it from a jersey crew neckline pullover. The sleeves have been removed and the shoulders extended just a hint. However the designer makes a noticeable difference in the sense that he has not opened the shirt so much at the under ams per the systematic case of its predecessor of more than 30 years ago.

Though insouciant the Lanvin men’s collection for Spring/Summer 2017 is not a giddy one. The colors are dark, somber and include lots of black, navy blues and complimenting tone.

With this Lanvin scores another top hit that will establish new fashion codes seasons after this collection hits the department stores and boutiques.