LANVIN: Goodbye Glam & Hello Casual
TWITTER: @FashionInsider1 / INSTAGRAM: TheFi_Mag
January 23, 2017
By Marcellous L. Jones
Photos Courtesy of Lanvin
Paris, France – Gathering the press, buyers, a few celebrities such as the Grey’s Anatomy television star Jesse Williams and other VIPs, Parisian fashion house Lanvin took us to the Palais de Tokyo for the presentation of its new collection. In it we find the house’s menswear heading further away from its glam rock ways. Instead we find the house steering itself more and more towards the craze for “real”and “authentic” attire need on a daily basis. This results in a lack of identity. This writer is not convinced that is the best avenue for the house to pursue at this.
The collection features fabrics and materials of wool, silk, suede, cashmere, leather, knits, nylon, etc. and with a few hints of fur. They have been applied to loose-fitting pants, midriff length sweaters, button down shirts, etc. The trousers are generally amply cut and taper to slimmer proportions as the head towards the ankles. This cut is from the early 80’s vibe. And it has been increasingly reasserting — even imposing — itself over the last several menswear seasons. In the rare suits, however, we find slim, straight pants teamed together with slim fitting and tailored blazers. In one such case we find a slightly raised, circular cut in the shoulder padding.
(NOTE TO READERS: Lanvin is experimenting this season with several very different options for shoulder work.)
This Fall Winter 2017/18 collection falls extremely under the domination of the house’s outerwear as imagined by creative director, Lucas Ossendrijvers. There are large proportions in the coats, which strike a visible contrast to the short-cropped leather bomber inspirations, which are more snuggly fitted. One of them is done in geometric forms of down-stitched leathers in tones blue and gray. Blue suede is also one of the features of this piece. Another seems to be crafted in a rawhide suede dyed in a natural tobacco tone. However the domineering strength of the outerwear is what gets these pieces the overwhelmingly vast lion’s share of the attention. One for example is a hooded, poncho style coat. It literally sweeps below the knees with its long angular edges. Unfortunately beyond that, there do not seems to be any other stand-out pieces or movements going on in this collection.