HUGO COSTA: The Amundsen Collection
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January 24, 2017
By Marcellous L. Jones
Images by Ugo Camera
Paris, France – Hugo Costa happens to be one of this writer’s favorite menswear designers. He is Portuguese youngster who has been progressively and consistently enlargening his fan base since his debut in 2010. Beyond being a very personable young man, he has a sensibility that allows him to effortly transpose keen ideas in his creations. This is the case here at the presentation of his new Fall Winter 2017/18 collection in Paris.
This new story from Hugo Costa is titled AMUNDSEN. It is a well conceived tribute in which the designer reimagines attire for the Norwegian explorer Roald Engelbregt Cravning Amundsen, who was the first adventurer to explore both the North and the South Poles. And he proved the existence of the Northwest passage before his disappearance.
Of his very original idea, Costa says, “AMUNDSEN is a representative collection of the human being’s necessity to explore the unknown. Thus, it is the urgency for new experiences and adventures, metaphorically represented by territorial explorations.”
Using a foundation of wools, jerseys and technical materials, Hugo Costa has conceived a modern wardrobe filled with soft peaks and edges that dance around with folds of materials and light drapings. The garments are voluminous, thus allowing for a full freedom of movement. It therefore results in a maximum of comfort. The coats are long, the tops are hooded and the trousers amply cut.
In addition to being made well (per the cutting and finishing skills for which Hugo Costa has accustomed his fans), he has made the collection more aesthetically pleasing to the eye thanks to his subtle and positive color palette. In it we find black, white, gray, green and blues.
This is the second consecutive season that Hugo Costa has presented his work in during the fashion week in Paris, but not on the officially sanctioned calendar. Notwithstanding the clear abject failures of some big name fashion houses (see our reviews from the shows which took place on Sunday, January 23, 2017 for that scoop), the Paris Fashion Week was definitely strong. Thanks to his ability to team color, comfort and fit together in one cohesivie story, Hugo Costa has the potential to impose himself as one of the brightest international stars of the fashion week in the way that Juun J. and Wooyoungmi have done before him…
In the opinion of this writer, Hugo Costa needs to make the next logical move in his career and get himself onto the official calendar of the Paris Fashion Week. It is clear that there is room for fresh and authentic talent like his.