LEONARD: Wintry Crystallization
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March 7, 2017
By Amra Zvizdić
Photos Courtesy of Leonard
Paris, France – When artistic director Christine Phung designs a new collection for French house Leonard Paris, she brings mathematical couture to the runway. Leonard is a brand that implies innovation in what concerns fabrics, printing techniques and the design itself. For the next Fall/Winter 2017/18 season, she has chosen to play with marble prints as well as with many different shades and colours per the house’s tradition.
A marble jacquard is richly weaved to give texture and reflection. Soft textiles such as printed wool or snow-white alpaca, bring sensuality that contrasts with the overall rigor of the collection. ‘A young woman is exploring a marble quarry in Carrara, Italy. Of this Phung says, “Around her, purple, blue and red striated rocks form an old-age natural geometry”.’
Finding creativity in precision and meticulousness in instinct is at heart of Phung’s creative process. “Wintry crystallization” is the theme of the new body of work and is best seen in recreation of the brand’s emblematic orchid flower. It is given a winter make over by being ‘trapped in ice’. Ever-expected flowers dominate the collection as well. Reworked into multi-coloured fur, embroidered, sewn up in luxurious patchwork for an abstract, architectural result, the blossoms form an ideal platform for pieces that are both sharp and spontaneous. The looks are embellished with accessories created by the fine art jeweller, Jean Grisoni.
Aside from being gorgeously executed, well fitted and elegant, this new collection is primarily functional. As ready-to-wear would suggest, it allows freedom of movement and comfort. It is comprised of sporty blousons, streamlined blazers, flowy flower-print dresses, fur gilets, and desirable trench coats with dotted detailing. The colour palette is rather bold, varying from dark purple to bright turquoise, ice to dark blue, burgundy to light pink, black to white. However, even with all the different colours, layers and prints, the collection is perfectly in sync.