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March 12, 2017

By Amra Zvizdić, Founder Amra’s Haute Life

Photos by Alexander Kozhin

Paris, France – Berlin based fashion designer Nobieh Talaei, is a designer that successfully combines East and West. Her love of textiles and pure, archetypical forms runs like a thread through her grandmother’s nomadic family heritage. Those gifts include  a background in traditional handcrafts and dressmaking skills. Born in Teheran, she continues to study many different cultures which is more than noticeable in her work.

Talaei’s Fall/Winter 2017/2018 collection for her Nobi Talai brand is strongly inspired by geometric structures and ubist forms. This is no wonder. Her work in last show for her Spring/Summer 2017 collection is comprised of strong geometrically shaped pieces, perfect cutting and layering technique. And of course this latter has become a trademark for Nobi Talai house. This season we find it paired with a rich colour palette, and which results in a collection that is equally unique and feminine.

She chose the American Cathedral in Paris as the lieu where she would unveil the use of triangular folds. Among the first looks to catch one’s attention is a jumpsuit in the burgndy. Instead of normal pockets, we find a gathering of large fold that form soft waves of draping.  Upon being set in kinetic motion, a strong sensuality is naturally created. This brings more attention to the hips, then strengthening the women’s sex appeal.

The designer goes on to use these folds to create interesting proportions to skirts and sleeves, while fur and leather capes bring angular balance to the looks. Rich shades of chocolate and more burgundy — oftentimes layered tone-on-tone — make it really difficult to tell where one piece ends and the next begins. This is particularly seen in the dark blue, white and black leather jumpsuits, or is that just a mix of a blouse, skirt and pants? Even though this is a highly geometrical collection, light fabrics soften up the strict forms. The most interesting part of the collections are the rounded shirt-like hems, such as the one seen on a full-length soft white leather dress that has an air of ceremonial robe.

Another interesting feature of this collection is the use of the raglan sleeve, which gives a more casual dimension to certain looks made of leather and silk. Surely, let us not remember the highlight of the runway- an off-white skirt structured like a Chinese lantern. All in all, a very classy, elegant but sharp collection.

Nobi Talai Paris Fashion week FW 2017-2018

Nobi Talai Paris Fashion week FW 2017-2018