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March 20, 2017
By Amra Zvizdić
Images Courtesy of Rochas
Paris, France – Chez Rochas, we see a catwalk filled with shimmer, elegance and style. It is not a marvel to see a bit of sparkly stunners during Paris Fashion Week, but we witnessed a complete transformation from a demure and polished collection to a luster, eye-catching presentation of Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s vision of Fall/Winter 2017/2018.
Elegant midi dresses, portrait-collar coats, thin cashmere knits, draped skirts and dresses are amped up when lace-sparkle-fringe-tasselled dresses. Since the entire season is rather inspired by the 1940’s and the 1950’s, it is no wonder that the Rochas collection has a bit retro as well. The unique vision of femininity, like the one Marcel Rochas once presented inspired by Parisian freedom, is interlaced in this prismatically wearable ready-to-wear collection.
The essential values of the brand, audacity, joie de vivre and excellence, are quite visible in every single look. Dell’Acqua focuses on elegance and brought back the brand’s signature ‘R’. Nude knee-high stockings paired with pointy pumps make a perfect match for long, lace gowns and short baby doll dresses. The ‘R’ is seen everywhere, from bags and shoes to turtlenecks and pockets. He makes sure to make it visible by embroidering it to jackets and coats, stitching it in crystal trinkets on collars, or using sequins to attach it to the pockets of a black silk dress. The ‘R’ is definitely ‘R’ocking the ‘R’unway.
This collection offers a wide range of high evening outfits that are quite sophisticated, elegant and delicate. This is perhaps Dell’Acqua’s most polished collection in the recent years. Luxe decorative black velvet bows additionally intensify the chic note of the collection. The wide variety of colours — black, dark and light grey, olive green, powder pink, baby blue, burgundy and shades of brown and mustard– offers a range of possibilities to suit different personalities.
A touch of faux-fur and leather detailing gives the collection an additional note of luxury, while floral prints give it a more romantic feel. Show-stopping looks, such as the black mikado silk dress or tulle black gown, are prim and modern at the same time. The more quiet looks, such as the long-sleeved rust coloured dress with embroidered cuffs, or a pink pleated skirt with a matching T-shirt, give the collection a more controlled note.
The models on the runway moved lightly, in a refined manner. Dell’Acqua requested models’ hair be placed off their faces, so their tresses were parted to the side. The make-up that they propose for the season is very simple and is created with creamy shades of burgundy and a nude palette. The focus is entirely on the clothing. As make-up artist in charge, Lucia Pieroni stated, she envisaged a ‘principle schoolboy meets prince charming with a 17th century twist thrown into the mix.’