July 3, 2015
By Marcellous L. Jones
Photos Courtesy of CIFONELLI
Paris, France – Over the last several years, Paris has seemingly abandoned its passion for tailoring and fine menswear in favour of the more commercially successful sportswear houses. This is reflected on the catwalks too as fewer and fewer houses are electing to show the best of traditional craftsmanship. Luckily the Spring/Summer 2016 Cifonelli is a grand reminder of what should be forgotten.
This new collection is created on an intelligent palette of blue tones, white, black and gray-on-gray. It includes a few natural tones and masculine tropical prints. All the silhouettes are constructed on silk, linen and knits.
We find exquisitely tailored suits with windowpanes. Some are worn with striped shirts while others worn with striped shirts with large polka dots on ties and pocket squares. The latter have been perfectly matched to the tone of the stripes that the window panes in the suit materials or to the material used in the shirts. The suits are crafted closely to the body and nearly all have a vest for both the single breasted and the double-breasted creations. And though the lapels are cut short, they are very large and at times appear to rise to the top of the shoulders.
PAY ATTENTION TO THE SHOULDER WORK…!!! This writer is always preaching about the importance of attention to details. And when it comes to men’s tailoring (or in couture in the case of Cifonelli), the shoulder work can never be too well executed. And here Cifonelli clearly understands that the shoulders are the last thing on a man’s body to age! And therefore the house’s work in this area is impeccable!
As for the styling, Cifonelli suggests a dark base of trousers and fine knit tops in black or navy blue. The looks are then finished with white accessories including shoes, belts and either a short cropped jacket or a short coat falling only a few inches above the knees. This is reserved for their luxury sportswear items which also includes suede jackets and coats.