September 24, 2015
By Marius Brianski
Photos Courtesy of Tom Browne
Lodz, Poland – Is it school uniform parody or a memoir to the good old days? Designer Tom Browne showed his collection for Spring/Summer 2016 in New York.
Inspired by the everyday outfits from the Golden Era of Hollywood we go back in time to the days when women had to obey the rules. The bodies of the models are covered by the clothes exposing only a small part of the leg. The colors are also neat and proper with only white, black and grey. And though there are relatively no embroideries, Browne does gift each look with elaborate motifs that have been woven directly into the fabrics. Many of them are floral or have representations of Japanese women in traditional frocks.
There is yet an element of burlesque and irony in the show. The burlesque costumes feature multiple layers with coats, jackets, vests and pleated or ruffled skirts. They remind me a little bit of pin-up and cabaret shows. Everything seems to perfect and proper. The garments feature film noir inspired prints and old-school drawing and florals. The accessories range from retro chic hats, stylish bags and lace up boots.
It’s kinda strange to see fashion covering so much of the person’s body, yet it makes sense because it hits as an attention grabber with all the nudity around. As separates the garments can make really interesting basics to the modern uniform.