September 28, 2015
By Marcellous L. Jones
Photos Courtesy of Dsquared2
Milan, Italy – Something strange occurred as I watched the new collection by Dsquared2 hit the catwalk. This writer realized the impossible. For the first time in the decade in which I have been faithfully following the rise of Dsquared2 to international powerhouse status, there is actually something detestable about their new Spring/Summer 2016 collection.
The first part of the collection in the opinion of this writer is arguably the most uninteresting work that the designers have ever committed to the catwalk. The optimistic yellows and blues and pinks all put together in the party dresses with holes left me “froid” as we commonly say in French. In fact it looks all “too familiar”.
Thank Jesus, Moses and Mohamed for the latter part of the collection. Here is what this writer lives for.
The later part of the collection is dominated by black and structured pieces. Here is where designers Dean and Dan Caten put their tailoring skills to the service of it most banked clients. Now even though the banded dresses too look all-too-familar, they are proposed with a new way of wearing them. They are worn over tatoo-like body suits and are extremely nice to see.
This writer is guessing that the little “fun” dresses are more commercially accessible and meant to be devoured by the younger Dsquared2 fans. That leaves the more sophisticated and banked clients to savour the more mature pieces with the greatest amount of technique invested in them.