January 17, 2016
By Marcellous L. Jones
Photos Courtesy of Les Hommes
Milan, Italy – The new collection by fashion house Les Hommes makes for a complicated, yet skilful affair for Fall Winter 2016/17. This season the artistic directors Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch have decided to make the collection a whole from often divided and opposing forces.
Vandebosch and Notte are melding together four things: a) Large vs. Slim; and b) Urban vs. Sleek.
As the designers seek to broaden their client base, we find them quickly integrating more casual and urban attire into their line. This is made evident by the oversized knit pieces, the rugged out coats and the biker pants in leather. There are giant lapels and collars of proportions worthy only of description by François Rabelais. There are even Pantagruel-sized, slip-over collars in knit from among the accessories. These are just some of the elements that the design duo intend to use to arm their urban hero.
The aforementioned pieces are just a few among the many that strike quite the contrast to the sleek and refined image that Les Hommes has carefully crafted for itself over the past decade. However to our delight we do see the opposition appear with the appearance of the sleek suits. And like their lapels, they are cut slim to the body per Notte’s and Vandebosch’s tradition.
Harmony is established in the collection thanks to the many unifying details. For instance, the collection is peppered with bold geometric embellishments. They appear in both the urban sportswear pieces and in the more sleek suits. Furthermore, silver metallic studs appear as constellations on the shirt collars, the gloves, the ties, the cuffs of the shirts, the shoes, the short-cropped jackets and even on the thin ties. And they form some of the geometric motifs which appear in many of the pieces.
The Les Hommes Fall Winter 2016/17 collection is by no means an easy affair. However, thanks to careful and minute research with unparalleled attention to details, a harmonious chord has been stricken. And Vandebosch and Notte make it so visually intriguing as they guide us through one of the most interesting and creative chapters of their careers… BRAVO !!!