UNGARO – Fall Winter 2016/17

UNGARO - Fall Winter 2016/17

January 21, 2016

By Marcellous L. Jones

Photos by Ralph Wenig

Paris, France – The house of Ungaro heats up Paris with its new men. Nearly entirely assembled in Italy, we find in airs of country warm conjugated with urban readiness. The mix is one that is both stylish as it is masculine.

Rather than base the collection on a particular theme or inspiration, its artistic director Philippe Paubert decided to commence his story around four color groups: First there is black, white and grey to represent the DNA codes of the house of Ungaro. Second, there is green, moss, petrol blue and brown shades. Though forestry, their purpose is to give the collection that urban touch. Blue and indigo form the third movement of the collection. It leads us into the formal wear silhouettes. And lastly, we have winter red and dark blue for warmth.

Paubert has created manly pieces and looks. Not wishing to confine the Ungaro gentleman, he has crafted each element in his ensembles to always have that air of freedom, life and tranquility even in busy urban settings. That is not to say that he has abandoned tailoring. It is quite indeed present in the collection, however for this season it is much softer. It is very evident in the gentle shoulders of the suits blazers.

Fabric is a key element. Paubert works with massive amounts of jersey. However his have been especially treated to resemble other materials such as wool. This “felted” jersey is the star of many of the pieces and particularly the blazers. These jackets are light, and very resistant. And with only lining in their shoulders portion, they maintain an air of légerté. This too is the case for the sweaters. In look one would imagine easily that they are heavier pieces. However, they too are made with extremely light yarns.

Respecting the codes of the house, polka dots are literally found in every piece of the collection. Some very large and more pattern-like for example in the scarves or as the demanded small white on black surface in the lining of other pieces. This is the continuation of tradition.

Before ending this writer would like to comment on the embroideries. In one shirt of particularly lightweight material, scenery is created. Botanical in nature, they recall of the Ungaro’s man attachment to nature even when he is in his natural and daily urban habitat.