June 24, 2016
By Marius Brianski
Photos Courtesy of Dirk Bikkembergs
Lodz, Poland – The new collection for Spring/Summer 2017 by Dirk Bikkembergs keeps one asking “why” and with other questions about the direction in which the designer wants to go.
Let’s get things straight on the catwalk. We could see chaos with some random, pieces that seem to lack profound thought. At first there are the sport inspired manly silhouettes with some international touches. Classical shapes in vivid colors or star white in shorts, jackets, tops and shirts. Second after that we can see garments bringing the 1980s back with stars, substantial chains, metallic and glowing logos. After that there’s some flower prints coming from nowhere. And finally after that we see the return of casual styles which seek to comply to the needs of everyday consumers.
First thoughts? No consistency, bad styling and no leading theme. Many of the sets look a little cheap, because of the bad combinations used. It started of trying to be sexy, and create a superhero figure, but it ended up lacking taste. The saving graces in the collection and show are the well tailored suits, leather jackets and the casting of models that bear a striking difference to the pasty, pale ghostly figures chosen at other shows this season. Nonetheless Dirk Bikkembergs should opt for stronger point of view with a better focus in the future.