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By Rhonda Richford
Riga, Latvia – Lithuanian designer Lilija Larionova start out her new Fall Winter 2017/18 collection with a series of superb coats. Padded silk and soft, they recall of Issey Miyake but with an edge. They are well-constructed and look modern without being referential. But then from there, Lilija Larionova quickly lost her way…
The theme for the collection is “White Horses,” and indeed she tried to transport us to the American West with coats in sand and the burnt sienna color of the New Mexico hills. Caramel dresses are simple enough and flow well on the models. However, their black counterparts in washed silk simply do not hold their shape well. Touches of green, purple and red livened up the color palette for the men’s looks, but the women’s colorways were a bit drab and could have used a touch of the same vibrancy.
Speaking overall, the collection has a utilitarian air that can work well for sales, but it lacks direction and is certain to get lost down Route 66.