Ana’s Time Capsule
Fall Winter 2012-13
February 4, 2012
Madrid, Spain – A time capsule is a hermetic recipient created in order to preserve messages and objects from the present so that they can be discovered by future generations. Time capsules provide an opportunity to reflect on the question of time, on the way things disappear and on the way others emerge to replace them, as well as the differences and similarities between the customs of each age. “Time Capsule” establishes a dialogue between two moments in history that are almost 100 years apart: our last decade and the period of economic prosperity that the United States enjoyed in the 1920’s.
Here we will come across a loose and low-hipped silhouette inspired by the 1920’s, combined with the oval and semi-rigid volumes of today. These rectangular lines seduce and caress looser hips. We find straight coats and rigid collars for both outdoor and indoor garments. Dresses and jumpsuits are reconstructed through the tuxedo; sleeves open along the seam showing a double use, letting the arms peep through them.
The use of the structured jacket in geometric cuts, a typical characteristic of the Ana Locking brand, is once again featured creating a slight “uniform” effect for female clothing, one that is almost always excluded in the case of men. We come across long lengths for the evening, based on another typical feature of the brand, the two-colored block, in this case in black and white. Lengths and slacks feature a slight “Art Deco” feel in the selection of details on a series of gilded tin belts, and yet the designer didn’t omit a structural execution of the most classic tailoring, creating eye-deceiving effects. Lapels are mixed with false “inner waist” coats; tailored double lapels are made into tuxedo lapels.
Grey felt dresses were also showed, together with chartreuse yellow overcoats (a key color of the collection), or in armored looking felt dresses, possibly hinting at some early 2000’s Jil Sander creations. Cuts were unexpected and the clothes appeared to be very well tailored: an example could be a blouse entirely covered in aurora sequins looking like the scales of a bejeweled fish, or a lapis blue evening gown with asymmetrical neckline and a maxi golden metal belt. Lengths where definitely over, especially in eveningwear, as we saw many long skirts and trains – that is indeed a common trait of many Spanish designers: a fascination with long, nostalgic trains.
Nostalgic as the Ana Locking upcoming Fall Winter 2012-2013 collection but charged with a constructive attitude that saved the show from being just a melancholic gathering of antique costumes.
